
Drywall anchors are a handy solution for hanging heavy items on walls. However, their strong grip on the drywall can make it challenging to remove them when you want to relocate the attached item. This guide will teach you how to remove and patch screw-in wall anchors effectively.
First, identify the type of drywall anchor. Common types include expansion, threaded, and self-drilling toggle anchors. Expansion anchors are typically easy to remove by withdrawing the screw, which collapses the anchor. Threaded anchors can be removed by inserting a screwdriver and turning it counterclockwise. For self-drilling toggle anchors, insert a screwdriver, turn it counterclockwise, and tap the head to collapse the toggle bar before pulling it out.
If the anchors are difficult to remove, you can push them through the wall. Remove any metal fasteners, gently tap the anchor head with a hammer until it's below the drywall surface, and then repair the drywall. Alternatively, cut the anchor out with a utility knife and a keyhole saw, and patch the resulting hole.
To patch drywall holes, tap the edges with a hammer to flatten them, cut off proud edges with a utility knife, or sand the opening. Wipe away drywall dust, then use a putty knife to apply drywall compound or spackle to fill the hole. Let it dry, sand the area, and touch up with paint if needed.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
First Step | Identify the type of drywall anchor |
Expansion Drywall Anchors | Support lighter-weight items hung on drywall |
Threaded Drywall Anchors | Support heavier items |
Self-drilling Toggle Anchors | Support much heavier items |
Tools to Remove Anchors | Screwdriver, drill, needle-nose pliers, ball-peen hammer, utility knife, keyhole saw |
Filling the Hole | Spackle, joint compound, white toothpaste, white bar soap, drywall compound |
What You'll Learn
Identify the type of drywall anchor
Drywall, also known as plasterboard, sheetrock, or wallboard, is created using soft materials such as gypsum and paper. As such, nails and screws are not suitable for hanging items on drywall. Drywall anchors are necessary to prevent nails and screws from slipping out and causing the drywall to break apart.
There are several types of drywall anchors, including:
- Plastic drywall anchors, which are suitable for hanging lightweight items such as pictures.
- Metal drywall anchors, which are stronger and designed to hold heavier items.
- Molly bolts or anchor screws, which have a metal sleeve with a screw attached to one end and a toggle at the other end. These are suitable for medium-weight objects.
- Self-drilling wall anchors, which have sharp teeth on one end and do not require pre-drilling.
- Toggle bolts, which have a threaded rod with wings attached. These are considered the strongest option and are the only wall anchors recommended for concrete or plaster walls.
- Butterfly drywall anchors, which combine the benefits of an expansion and threaded anchor with the added security of a molly bolt.
When choosing a drywall anchor, it is important to consider the weight of the item being hung and select an anchor with an appropriate weight rating. Additionally, the type of wall should be considered, as some anchors are more suitable for certain types of walls than others.
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Try to remove the drywall anchor
Removing a drywall anchor is a valuable skill that can save you time and money in the long run. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to do it:
Step 1: Gather Your Materials
First, make sure you have the right tools for the job. You will need a putty knife, medium-grit sandpaper, a drill, and a cutting wheel. You may also need a utility knife if the edge of your putty knife is too thick to fit under the anchor's collar. If you are removing multiple anchors, you may also want to wear safety goggles.
Step 2: Lift the Edges of the Anchor
Start by using your putty knife as a lever to carefully lift the edge of the anchor's collar. If the putty knife slips off the anchor, you can add medium-grit sandpaper to the edge of the knife to improve grip. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, as you do not want to damage the wall.
Step 3: Pull Out the Anchor
Once you have lifted the edge of the collar, use a set of needle-nose pliers to grab the edge of the anchor's head or collar. Wiggle the anchor free with a gentle back-and-forth motion. If this does not work, proceed to the next step.
Step 4: Screw Out the Anchor
If the anchor is still not coming out, you can try screwing it out. Use a hammer to gently tap a screwdriver into the anchor, making sure it fits snugly. Then, back the anchor out by turning the screwdriver counter-clockwise. If the anchor turns but won't back out or won't budge, you may need to try the next method.
Step 5: Push the Anchor Through the Wall
If you are dealing with multiple drywall anchors that won't budge or if your wall is brittle, you may need to recess the anchors into the wall instead of pulling them out. To do this, start by cutting off the collar of the anchor with a utility knife or a cutting wheel attached to your drill. Once the collar is removed, gently tap a screwdriver into the anchor until it falls out the other side of the wall. This method will only work for plastic sleeves, so if you have metal anchors, you will need to use the next step.
Step 6: Use a Cutting Wheel
If you are dealing with metal anchors, you will need to use a cutting wheel to remove them. First, put on your safety goggles. Then, attach a cutting wheel to your drill and cut off the head of the drywall anchor. You can also use a utility knife or the drill to score around the drywall to make it easier to remove the anchor. Finally, tap a screwdriver with a wider head into the anchor's mouth to push it into the wall.
Once you have removed the anchors, you can patch the holes in your wall using drywall compound or spackle.
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Push a drywall anchor through the wall
To push a drywall anchor through the wall, you'll first need to select the right type of anchor for the weight of the item you want to hang.
For lightweight items, such as small framed paintings, paper towel racks, or anything under 10 lbs, plastic expansion anchors are ideal. These are the cheapest and most basic type of drywall anchor and can be installed by hand.
For items weighing 10-25 lbs, like shadow boxes and curtain rods, self-drilling anchors are a good option. These can be screwed into the wall using a drill or a screwdriver.
For objects in the 25-50 lbs range, such as cabinets, floating shelves, and mirrors, you'll need something sturdier, like a hollow wall anchor (also known as a molly bolt).
Toggle bolts are another option for heavy items. These have a spring-loaded collapsible wing nut that pops open once it's through the pilot hole, providing a secure hold.
Once you've selected the appropriate anchor, follow these steps:
- Drill a pilot hole: Use a drill bit that's slightly smaller than the width of your anchor. Hold the drill at a 90-degree angle to the wall to ensure the hole is straight.
- Insert the anchor: Push the anchor into the pilot hole by hand or tap it gently with a hammer until it's flush with the wall. Some anchors may need to be screwed in.
- Secure the anchor: Use a screwdriver to tighten the central screw of the anchor. As you do this, the backside will expand or spread out, clamping the wall tight and providing a secure hold.
- Hang your item: Finally, insert the screw through the mounting hole of the item you're hanging and drive it into the anchor. Make sure not to overtighten the screw, as this can damage the anchor and reduce its weight-bearing capacity.
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Cut a drywall anchor out of the wall
If you've tried the methods for how to remove metal drywall anchors, how to remove drywall anchors with wings, and how to remove plastic drywall anchors, and the anchor is still in the wall, cutting it out of the wall is a practical, universal solution. This method can result in more drywall damage that will need to be repaired, but it is a reliable way of removing drywall anchors. It's also the same method used to create an opening for an electrical box in drywall.
First, score the drywall around the anchor head with a utility knife. Then, follow the score line with a keyhole (jab) saw. Clean up the edges of the hole and wipe away any dust.
Next, cut a piece of drywall that's about 3 inches wider and longer than the hole. Score the centre of the piece to size, and peel back the paper face to the score line. The paper face will lay flat on the wall. Insert the patch and then finish with joint compound or spackle, sand smooth, and then paint to match the rest of the wall.
If you are removing a drywall anchor, you will likely be left with a massive hole. It will be way bigger than the anchor seemed to be, but don't panic! Before you fill the hole, take some thick paper – such as a grocery bag or magazine mailer – and tear off little pieces to stuff into the hole. This gives the spackle something to lay on and grab hold of. Then, take your favourite spackle and a putty knife and frost the holes with it. Keep frosting until you've covered the holes, using the scraper to take off the excess and then reapplying a few times. Leave a little smudge of extra spackle on top so the holes are covered really well. After it's dry, sand it down a bit and reapply if needed. Wipe down after sanding, wiping off all excess spackle.
Be very selective about where you put anchors in your walls. Generally, you will ALWAYS see where they were, no matter how well you patch them up. Anchors tend to pull the drywall up around them a bit, so the drywall is never quite flat.
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Patch drywall holes
Before you begin patching drywall holes, it is important to know the placement of utilities in your home. Typically, electric wires are attached to wall studs. Wear protective clothing, work gloves, goggles, and a dust mask when working with drywall.
Patching Small Holes
For small holes, like those created by a doorknob, a patch kit may be used. Place a self-adhesive mesh patch over the hole. Then, use a putty knife to cover the patch with spackling compound or lightweight joint compound in a crisscross pattern. Feather the edges so that the compound blends with the wall. Let the patch dry and apply a second coat of the compound if necessary. Sand the area smooth.
Patching Medium Holes
For holes up to 6 inches, use the California Patch. Cut a piece of drywall into a square shape that is 2 inches larger in width and height than the area to be repaired. Score the back of the drywall with a utility knife about an inch from each side. Snap off the gypsum, but leave the paper backing intact. Hold the patch over the hole and trace around the gypsum square. Cut out the traced square with a drywall saw. Apply joint compound to the back of the paper border. Fit the gypsum into the new hole and press the paper edges coated with joint compound into place along the outside edge of the hole. Cover the entire patch with joint compound until the lines are camouflaged, feathering the edges. This patch may require two coats of compound, with dry time in between coats. Sand smooth.
Patching Large Holes
For holes larger than 6 inches, you will need to create a drywall patch with a different attachment method. Cut a piece of drywall into a square a little bigger than the hole. Hold the square over the hole in the drywall and trace around the edges. Cut along the lines on the wall with a drywall saw. Inside the hole, attach a furring strip, a small, thin piece of wood, to either side of the hole with screws. Sink the screws beneath the surface of the drywall. Set the drywall patch in place and screw it into the furring strips, sinking the screws beneath the surface of the drywall. Apply joint tape to the borders of the patch. Joint tape is made of mesh and strengthens the bond between the patch and the wall, reducing movement and helping to prevent future cracks. Cover the patch and tape with joint compound, feathering the edges. Allow the compound to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply a second coat if needed. Sand smooth.
Finishing Up the Drywall Repair Process
Finish all repairs with a final light sanding to ensure a satin smooth finish and seamless blending between the patch and the wall. Cover with a coat of primer, and let dry. Then, paint the wall.
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Frequently asked questions
Removing a screw-in wall anchor is simple. First, use a screwdriver or drill to gently back out the screw from the anchor. Then, use a pair of needle-nose pliers to grip the screw shaft and gently pull out the anchor. If there is resistance, remove the screw entirely and pound the anchor back into the wall and through.
To patch a hole left by a screw-in wall anchor, first, cut off any proud edges around the hole using a utility knife and sand the opening so it's flush. Then, wipe the wall free of drywall dust with a dry rag. Next, use a putty knife to apply enough drywall compound or spackle to fill the hole. Do an "X" motion over the repair spot with the knife to get the putty flush with the wall while removing excess. Let the compound dry overnight. Finally, sand the dried compound and apply another coat if needed before touching up with paint.
To patch a screw-in wall anchor hole, you will need a utility knife, sandpaper or a sanding sponge, a dry rag, a putty knife, and drywall compound or spackle. You may also need a screwdriver or drill to remove the anchor.
There are several ways to fill a screw-in wall anchor hole, including using drywall compound, spackle, toothpaste, or joint compound. Before filling the hole, you can also stuff it with thick paper, such as grocery bags or magazine mailers, to give the filler something to grab onto.
Patching a screw-in wall anchor hole is a relatively quick process. After filling the hole with drywall compound or spackle, let it dry overnight. Then, sand the dried compound and apply another coat if needed before touching up with paint.