Crafting A Customized Table Saw Run Off: A Comprehensive Guide

Building a run-off table for your table saw is a great way to improve its functionality and make your woodworking projects easier. A run-off table provides extra support for large projects and can even offer additional features such as storage and dust collection. In this article, we will explore different ways to build a run-off table, including removable options and those with additional features, so that you can choose the best method for your needs. Whether you are working with limited space or looking for a permanent solution, there is a run-off table design that will enhance your table saw's performance and make your woodworking more enjoyable and efficient.

Build a table saw outfeed table with plywood

Building a table saw outfeed table with plywood is a great way to add functionality and versatility to your workshop. Here's a step-by-step guide to building one:

Planning and Materials

Before you begin, decide on the size of your table saw outfeed table based on the space available in your workshop and the size of your table saw. You will need the following materials:

• Plywood (3/4" or 1/2" thick) for the top and shelves
• Lumber for the legs and frames (e.g. 2"x4" or 2"x8" Southern Yellow Pine boards)
• Screws (1-1/4" or 2" decking screws)
• Glue (wood glue or construction adhesive)
• Adjustable feet or casters
• Optional: MDF or particleboard for the top, Kreg track saw or circular saw, pocket hole jig, biscuits or pocket hole screws, etc.

Building the Table Saw Outfeed Table:

• Build the Frames: Cut the lumber to size for the legs and frames. Join the legs together to form an "L" shape using glue and clamps. Drill pocket holes in the frame pieces and assemble them using glue and pocket hole screws. Ensure the tops of the frames are flush. Predrill countersunk holes for attaching the shelves and top later.
• Add the Shelf Tops: Cut the MDF or plywood to size for the shelves. Predrill holes and attach the shelves to the frames using screws in the corners and middle. Sand or trim the edges for a flush finish. You can apply a finish to the shelves, such as boiled linseed oil or paste wax.
• Assemble the Table: Mark the leg positions on the frames. Space the legs apart, clamp the frames, and screw them together. Attach the adjustable feet or casters to the legs.
• Create the Table Top: For the table top, you can use plywood or MDF. Cut the pieces to size, ensuring they are clamped together securely. Countersink screws and sand the holes flush to create a smooth surface. Spread glue on the top piece of MDF or plywood and place the other piece on top. Use weights or clamps to hold them together while the glue dries.
• Finish the Table Top: Round the corners of the table top using a jigsaw or router. Apply a finish to the table top, such as boiled linseed oil, polyurethane, or paste wax.
• Attach the Table Top: Secure the table top to the frames using screws. Ensure the table is level and adjust the feet or casters accordingly.
• Optional Features: You can add features such as T-molding, miter gauge grooves, or a torsion box top for a flat work surface.

By following these steps, you can create a functional and durable table saw outfeed table using plywood, providing additional work surface and support for your workshop projects.

Cut, assemble, and attach the outfeed table frames

To build the outfeed table frames, you'll need to cut the parts for both the top and bottom frames. Each frame will have two long sides and four short supports that connect them to hold the top and the lower shelf. Using a stop block on a miter saw makes it easy to cut these pieces to the same size. For joinery, pocket holes are a good option. Drill two pocket holes using a Kreg Jig on each end of the short supports. The inner supports should all be the same length, making the assembly of the lower frame straightforward. Although it's not ideal to have the pocket screws angling outward on the ends, the frames will be glued and screwed in place, providing ample support.

For the upper frame, you can follow the same process as the lower frame, but also add vertical pocket holes along all the pieces. These will be used to attach the tabletop, while the shelf will be held in place by the legs and a few screws from above. Ensure that the vertical pocket holes are facing the same direction to avoid surprises later. When drilling holes on the ends of the inner supports, it's better to space them closer together using the A and B holes instead of the A and C holes on your Kreg Jig. This provides more space for your drill when securing the lower screws during assembly.

After cutting and drilling the pieces for both the top and bottom frames, you can begin assembling them. Apply glue to the joints and use clamps to hold the pieces together while screwing them in place. Make sure to check that everything is square, and use a straight edge to align the pieces accurately. The upper and lower frames will form the basic structure of your outfeed table, providing stability and support for the tabletop and shelf.

Secure the legs to the outfeed table frames

To attach the legs to the outfeed table frames, first ensure that you have built the outfeed table frames and made the table legs. Next, bring over the top frame and lay it upside down on a flat surface. Join each leg to the frame with glue and two screws per side, ensuring that both the leg and frame are flush to the table. This step does not require clamping as the screws will pull the legs tight to the corner.

After securing all the legs, flip the table base upright and put the lower frame into place. It should slide in and rest on the caster blocks at the bottom of the legs. No glue is needed for these joints as it would create a mess when sliding in the lower frame.

Cut and attach the work surfaces, trim, and t-track

Cut and Attach the Work Surfaces

I’m making the top for the table from extra MDF I had on hand. First, I ripped the MDF to width and then cut it to length with my Kreg Track Saw. And since MDF doesn’t have durable edges, I decided to trim the edges with yet some more offcuts. I picked out a thick piece of poplar that I could mill down to 1-½” wide & ¾” thick trim stock.

This also shows why I keep so many odd offcuts. With a bandsaw, planer, jointer, and table saw, you can turn large pieces of wood into whatever size you need. But if you aren’t set up to mill your own lumber, there is an easier way. You can always buy (1) pre-milled 1×4 and rip it down to (2) 1x2s or you can just buy (2) 1x2s ready to go.

Now that I was done using my table saw, I could remove the top from the old outfeed table and use it for the lower shelf. I cut it to length with my Kreg Track Saw and then cut it to width on the table saw to fit the opening. And even though the top was really beat up, I just flipped it over and the underside was clean as a whistle.

I slid the lower shelf into place on the frame and secured it to the cross supports with a few screws. Then I went back to salvage some more parts from the old table.

Add Trim to Worktop

With the top secured, I started attaching the poplar trim. First, I started with the short sides, set one end flush with the edge of the top, and made a mark about an inch long on the other end. Next, I cut the trim to size on the miter saw and then glued and brad nailed it to the edge of the work surface. If it was regular plywood, I would have used pocket screws on the underside and attached the trim before installing the top. But MDF doesn’t hold screws very well, so I defaulted to a glue-only connection.

After securing the short parts flush on one side, I installed the long trim on that same side. When you’re attaching the trim, err on the slightly proud side so you can sand it down flush at the end. Then I used my pull saw to cut the overhang off of the short trim pieces. When I’m cutting trim with a pull saw, I like to put a little pressure with my finger on the center of the blade. This helps me to get a better cut that doesn’t wander as much.

After cutting off the ends, I put on the final piece of long trim and nailed it in place. And I finished off by cutting the long sides to size with my pull saw. I filled all the nail holes with wood putty, then sanded the trim flush to the top and sanded all the edges smooth as well.

Add T-Track to Outfeed Table

The Kreg t-track is ¾” wide, so I chucked up a ¾” bit in my router and set it to just over ⅜” deep to put the track right below the surface. I positioned the dados for the track 4” from each end and one centered on the table. A straight-edge clamp paired up with the router makes this cut easy.

I picked up a tip from my buddy Johnny Brooke from Crafted Workshop to avoid tearout on the trim going into and out of the cut. I just glued sacrificial blocks onto the trim using painter’s tape and CA glue. Johnny did a similar outfeed table with dog holes instead of a t-track.

After cutting the first two slots, I was kicking myself for using MDF because it’s a disaster to route. I’d highly recommend using solid plywood if you have it. MDF also has poor screw-holding ability. I knew ⅜” of MDF wouldn’t effectively hold the t-track down under pressure, so I cut some strips of plywood to go directly under the t-track to give the screws something to bite into.

Next, I glued them in place and weighed them down to dry since I couldn’t use fasteners or they’d poke through the track slots. I also decided to go ahead and fill in the gap between the trim and the apron all around the top. I used small strips of MDF and glued and nailed them in place. This will give me additional clamping options on the overhang.

Finally, I flipped the table back over and test-fitted the t-track in the slots. The track was longer than the table, so I marked it to size and cut it a little short from the ends to avoid the screw hole. The track is aluminum and can be easily cut with a carbide-tooth blade on a standard miter saw.

To secure the track, I used ¾” #6 screws, only because the 1” screws were out of stock at the home center. I pre-drilled and secured a screw on one end, then pre-drilled the rest of the holes and drove in the screws.

Test the table saw outfeed table

Testing the Table Saw Outfeed Table

Now that your table saw outfeed table is built, it's time to test it out! Here are some steps to follow to ensure everything works as expected:

• Check the height adjustment: Adjust the leveling feet of the outfeed table so that it is slightly lower than the table saw's surface, ensuring a smooth transition for the workpiece.
• Inspect the alignment: Make sure the outfeed table is perfectly level with the table saw. Use a straightedge or a long, straight piece of wood to check for any gaps or unevenness between the two surfaces.
• Test the sliding action: If your outfeed table has a sliding or folding mechanism, test it by sliding or folding it into different positions. Ensure that it moves smoothly and locks securely in place.
• Evaluate the sturdiness: Try pushing or applying force to the outfeed table to check its stability. It should not wobble or move around easily. If it does, you may need to reinforce the structure or add additional support.
• Perform a test cut: Finally, it's time to make a test cut. Set up your table saw and feed a workpiece through the blade, allowing it to extend onto the outfeed table. Observe if the workpiece transitions smoothly and safely onto the outfeed table.
• Fine-tune as needed: If you notice any issues during the test cut, make adjustments accordingly. This may include minor tweaks to the height, alignment, or sliding mechanism. You can also add accessories like washers or spacers for a more precise fit.
• Check for smoothness: Run your hand over the surface of the outfeed table to ensure it is smooth and free of any snags or imperfections that could catch on the workpiece. Sand or adjust the surface as needed.
• Evaluate noise and vibration: Listen for any excessive noise or vibration during the test cut. If the outfeed table is not securely attached, it may rattle or vibrate, affecting the accuracy of your cuts. Tighten any loose connections or add additional support as necessary.
• Test with different materials: Try using different types of wood or workpieces of varying thicknesses and lengths to ensure the outfeed table can accommodate a range of projects.
• Assess dust collection: If your outfeed table has a dust collection system, such as a downdraft sanding area, test its effectiveness. Ensure that sawdust and debris are being properly collected to maintain a clean work environment.

Remember to always prioritize safety when working with power tools like table saws. Wear appropriate protective gear, including eye and ear protection, and ensure your work area is well-ventilated. By following these steps and conducting a thorough test, you can be confident that your table saw outfeed table is ready for your woodworking projects.

Frequently asked questions