The Craft Of Chamfering With A Table Saw: A Comprehensive Guide

how to chamfer with a table saw

Chamfering is a process that involves cutting a bevel along an edge or across a corner, and it can be done using a variety of tools, including hand tools like a block plane or spokeshave, or with power tools like a router or table saw. While chamfering with a table saw, it is important to ensure safety and precision. One way to achieve this is by using a jig, which helps keep your fingers at a safe distance from the blade while also allowing you to cut at the desired angle. Additionally, when ripping bevels, it is crucial to ensure that your stock is dressed flat, square, and with parallel edges to prevent burning or rough cutting.

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A chamfer is a bevel cut, often at 45 degrees

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A chamfer is a bevel cut along an edge or across a corner. Although a chamfer doesn't have to be cut at 45 degrees to the adjacent surfaces, this is the most common angle. When cutting at a 45-degree angle, the cut is referred to as a "chamfer", whereas a cut at a shallower angle is simply called a "bevel". A chamfer is usually dimensioned along the relieved edges, not across the face. For example, a 1/4" chamfer is formed by cutting back 1/4" along each edge.

Chamfers can be made with a variety of hand tools, such as a block plane or spokeshave, they can be routed, or cut on a table saw. When using a table saw, it is important to construct a jig from 1/4" plywood and scrap wood. The base size of the jig should be determined by the stock being cut and the distance between the saw's miter gauge and blade. One end should be squared to one side, and cleats should be attached to the square corner with glue and brads, being careful to avoid putting metal fasteners into the cutting line. The jig should then be clamped to the miter gauge, and the corner cut off, adjusting the position to achieve the desired angle.

When ripping bevels on a table saw, it is important to ensure that the stock has been dressed flat, square, and with parallel edges. The saw and workpiece should be oriented so that the bevelled edge of the keeper piece is above the leaning blade. This is to prevent the blade from trapping the bevel, which can cause burning or rough cutting if the board bows and lifts during the cut. With a right-tilt saw, this typically means working with the rip fence to the left of the blade. However, the fence on the right side may be necessary when beveling very wide panels, in which case it is important to keep the panel pressed down firmly near the blade to prevent lifting.

Using a splitter that tilts with the blade can help prevent kickback and ensure a clean cut when ripping bevels. If a splitter is not available, it is crucial to hold the workpiece solidly against the fence throughout the cut to prevent it from drifting towards the blade.

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Chamfering can be done with hand tools, routers, or table saws

Chamfering
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Chamfering is a versatile technique used to enhance the design and functionality of woodworking and metalworking projects. While routers and table saws are popular tools for chamfering, it can also be done using hand tools.

Chamfering with Hand Tools

Chamfering with hand tools offers precision and control over the size, shape, and angle of the edge profile. Common hand tools for chamfering include:

  • Hand planes, such as block planes and spokeshaves, are excellent for quickly breaking edges and creating small chamfers.
  • Chisels are ideal for cutting chamfers on very short edges that don't provide much reference surface for power tools.
  • Drawknives offer total control over the chamfer but require skill to cut straight edges.
  • Specialized hand tools like the 2-in-1 chamfer and roundover plane create perfectly even chamfers and roundovers.

Chamfering with Routers

Routers are a common choice for chamfering due to their ability to produce perfectly even and identical edge profiles. When using a router for chamfering:

  • Ensure all components of the fixture are securely fastened to the table.
  • Use a guard and wear eye and hearing protection.
  • For handheld routers, take light passes and let the bit cool between cuts to prevent burning and ensure tool longevity.
  • Use the appropriate router bit for the desired chamfer angle.

Chamfering with Table Saws

Table saws are effective for quickly creating chamfers of various sizes and angles. When chamfering with a table saw:

  • Use a sled with a fresh kerf cut into the fence to guide your cuts accurately.
  • Adjust the blade angle and fence position to achieve the desired chamfer dimensions.
  • Make multiple passes for large chamfers to prevent burning and improve safety.
  • Choose the right blade for the job, considering crosscut or ripping blades to minimize tearout.

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Prepare stock with dressed flat, square, and parallel edges

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Preparing stock with dressed flat, square, and parallel edges is an important step in woodworking. Here are some detailed instructions to achieve that:

Firstly, it is essential to use well-dressed stock for your woodworking projects. Dressing stock involves jointing, planing, and sawing parts in a specific sequence to ensure accurate geometry. The process begins by trimming away end checks and ripping boards to a rough width. Then, one edge is jointed and the board is ripped to its final width. Finally, a crosscut is made to achieve the desired length.

Before dressing the stock, it is crucial to check for any defects, such as cracks or splits, and either mark or cut them away. This includes checking for "checks," which are splits at the ends of boards. It is also important to let the rough-sized pieces "relax" for a few days before dressing them to their final size, as this helps ensure stability by releasing internal stresses in the wood.

When it comes to flattening a board, it is recommended to start with a piece of stock that is roughly 1 inch thick, 8 inches wide, and 10 inches long. Use a straightedge to identify any high and low spots on the board. Then, use a plane to make strokes and bring the high spots down to the lowest point. If the board is slightly twisted, take diagonal passes from one high corner to the other. For a cupped board, you can work with the convex face up or down, making straight cuts along both edges or strokes across the board to remove the high corners.

To straighten and square an edge, use a plane to make it straight and flat, ensuring it is square to the reference surface you flattened earlier. Beginners often want to correct an angled edge by tilting the plane, but with a crowned iron, this is unnecessary. Instead, set the sole in full contact with the edge, and adjust the plane with each cut until the blade is centred and the high side is brought into a square position.

After flattening one face and straightening one edge, the next step is to use the edge-planing techniques to work on the ends of the board. Ensure each end is square to both the reference surface and the edge. Use deliberate strokes, working in from both edges and stopping short of the corners to avoid chipping out. Check for straightness and squareness using a straightedge and a square.

Finally, to make the opposite edge and surface parallel, use a square to scribe a reference line indicating the board's finished width. Plane the opposite edge to this width, checking for squareness and parallelism with a square. Then, plane the remaining surface to bring the stock to the desired thickness, scribing a line all around the piece to guide you. Work until the high spots align with the low points, creating a feather edge that indicates a flat and parallel surface.

By following these steps, you will prepare stock with dressed flat, square, and parallel edges, which is crucial for achieving accurate and successful results in your woodworking projects.

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Orient the workpiece with the beveled edge above the blade

Orient
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When using a table saw to create a chamfer, it is crucial to pay attention to the orientation of your workpiece. The beveled edge of the keeper piece should be positioned above the blade. This is an important safety precaution to prevent burning or rough cutting. If the bevel is trapped beneath the blade, any slight imperfection or warping in the wood could cause the board to lift during the cut, leading to an uneven or scorched result.

To ensure the beveled edge is properly oriented above the blade, you may need to adjust your stance and the position of the rip fence. With a right-tilt saw, you will typically work with the rip fence to the left of the blade. This setup allows for a smooth cutting motion and helps prevent the bevel from becoming trapped. However, it might feel a bit awkward at first, especially if you are accustomed to a different configuration.

The challenge arises when beveling very wide panels. In such cases, you may need to position the fence to the right, which can increase the risk of the bevel being trapped under the blade. If you find yourself in this situation, pay close attention to your workpiece. Make sure to keep the panel firmly pressed down near the blade throughout the cutting process to prevent any unwanted lifting.

Additionally, consider using a splitter that tilts with the blade. This accessory will further minimize the chances of kickback and help ensure a clean, precise cut. If a splitter is not available, take extra care to hold the workpiece securely against the fence during the entire cut. By following these guidelines, you can effectively orient the workpiece with the beveled edge above the blade, enhancing the accuracy and safety of your chamfering process.

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Use a jig to safely chamfer small pieces with a table saw

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Using a table saw to chamfer small pieces of stock can be dangerous as your fingers would end up uncomfortably close to the blade. However, you can use a jig to safely chamfer these small pieces.

To make the jig, you'll need 1⁄4 " plywood and scrap wood. Size the base according to the stock you'll be cutting and the distance between the saw's miter gauge and blade. Square one end to one side, then attach cleats to the square corner with glue and brads, being careful not to put metal fasteners into the cutting line. Clamp the jig to the miter gauge. Cut the corner off the jig, adjusting the position to achieve the desired angle on test stock. Then, cut your project parts safely and securely.

A jig ensures that cuts are straight and parts are square, and it's worth the time it takes to make one because you'll use it repeatedly over the years. Using a jig will also allow you to keep your fingers away from the blade.

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