Craftsman Model 113 Table Saw Fence: Repair And Alignment Guide

The Craftsman Model 113 table saw is a popular choice for woodworking enthusiasts, but many users have reported issues with the fence. The OEM fence has been described as inadequate, with several people opting to upgrade to a Delta T2 fence, which is a clone of the expensive Biesemeyer fences. Other options for replacement include the Wixey WR700, MuleCabinet AccuSquare, and the Delta T3. When replacing the fence, it is important to take precise measurements and use the correct tools to avoid damaging the fence or the saw.

Retrofitting a Delta T2 Fence

To retrofit a Delta T2 Fence to a Craftsman table saw, you will need the following tools:

• Combination Square 24"
• Carpenters Square
• 7/16" Drill Bit
• 3/8" Drill Bit
• 5/8" Countersink Bit
• Flat Head/Phillips Head Screwdrivers
• Wrenches (various sizes)
• Socket Set
• Various Clamps
• Drill
• WD-40

It is recommended to use a drill press for accuracy and repeatability, but a handheld drill can be used with a centre punch to prevent the bit from wandering.

The first step is to establish the zero reference line. The fence's guide tube has an integrated measuring tape, so it is important to ensure that it lines up properly. Attach the guide tube to the front rail and use a square to find the "Zero" line, transferring a pencil mark to the front rail. Butt the back rail up to the front rail and transfer the mark. Pop the fence onto the front rail/guide tube assembly and line up the sight on the fence with the zero line on the guide tube, locking it down. Raise the blade to full height and lay the fence on the table, sliding it firmly against the saw blade. Ensure that the front rail is against the front of the saw and use clamps to secure it in place. Transfer the pencil mark from the front rail to the front of the saw table and remove the fence and front rail. Use a square to extend the pencil mark up the front of the table, across the top, and down the back.

Now, you need to mark the front rail for drilling. There are two options: using the pre-existing holes in the front rail and drilling new holes in the saw table, or vice versa. For the latter, prop the front rail assembly on a sawhorse and slide it up to the front of the saw table, lining up the line drawn on the front rail with the line on the table. Use scrap wood and paper to shim it up to the desired position, clamping and checking the clearance over the tabletop with the fence. Take your time to find the right equilibrium, ensuring the fence doesn't ride too high or too low over the table. Once the desired position is found, use a combination square to ensure this measurement is constant across the rail. Mark the drilling locations with a Sharpie marker by crouching beneath the saw table and marking through the existing holes.

Next, drill the front rail. Set up a makeshift fence using a piece of aluminium angle that pivots on a bolt at one end and is secured by a c-clamp on the other. Drill into the back of the rail where the marks are made, using wood blocks to elevate the rail and referencing the bottom of the rail against the fence. Use a 7/16" drill bit for all the holes, keeping a can of WD-40 handy to keep things cool and wearing safety glasses. After drilling the first hole, slide the rail down and drill the second hole. Then, mount a 5/8" countersink bit and countersink the holes until the screw heads sit flush.

For the rear rail, put the fence in place. Due to the motor sticking out of the back of the saw, the rear rail needs to be clamped in place. Loosen one end at a time and bump the rail up until the fence is raised evenly with the front. Mark the holes for drilling as before, then drill the holes using a similar setup on the drill press. It is not necessary to countersink these holes. Bolt the rear rail on and install the fence.

Finally, ensure everything is lined up correctly. Raise the blade and slide the fence over until it touches the right side of the blade. If the sight on the fence doesn't read "Zero" on the scale, loosen the two screws on the sight and line it up.

Repairing the XR2424 fence

The XR2424 fence is a good fence, and you can repair it. If the Teflon glides are missing or detaching, you can find replacements on eBay. If the rubber on the adjustment knob has hardened and is falling apart, you can replace it with a rubber wheel, a table leg tip, a crutch tip, a small caster wheel, or a different knob from the hardware store.

If the fence has seen better days and you want to replace it, you could consider the Delta T2 fence, the Delta 30-inch T-Square Fence and Rail System, or the Biesemeyer-branded fences under Delta.

Installing a Delta T3 fence

Upgrading your Craftsman Model 113 table saw fence with a Delta T3 fence is a great way to improve the accuracy and ease of use of your saw. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to install the Delta T3 fence:

Step 1: Gather the Required Tools and Materials

Before beginning the installation, ensure that you have all the necessary tools and materials. You will need a combination square, a carpenter's square, drill bits of various sizes (7/16", 3/8", 5/8"), a countersink bit, flat head/Phillips head screwdrivers, wrenches of various sizes, a socket set, clamps, and WD-40. A drill press is recommended for more accurate drilling, but a handheld drill can also be used with a center punch to prevent bit wandering.

Step 2: Prepare the Work Area and Saw

Unplug your table saw and raise the blade to full height. Clean the work area and saw surface to ensure a smooth installation process.

Step 3: Establish the Zero Reference Line

Attach the guide tube to the front rail of the Delta T3 fence. Using your square, find the "Zero" line on the guide tube and transfer a pencil mark to the front rail. Butt the back rail up to the front rail and transfer the mark. Set the back rail aside for now. Place the fence onto the front rail/guide tube assembly, lining up the sight on the fence with the zero line. Securely lock down the fence.

Step 4: Mark the Front Rail for Drilling

There are two approaches to making the fence fit: drilling new holes in the saw table or drilling the front rail. Drilling the front rail is a more accessible option if you cannot fit your table saw onto a drill press. Prop up the front rail assembly on a sawhorse and slide it up to the front of the saw table. Line up the mark on the front rail with the mark on the table. Use scrap wood and paper to shim the rail until you find a suitable position. Check the clearance by occasionally clamping the front rail and attaching the fence. Find a balance where the fence is not too high or too low above the table. Mark the drilling locations on the front rail.

Step 5: Drill the Front Rail

Set up a makeshift fence on your drill press to simplify the drilling process. Drill into the back of the rail where your marks are located. Use a 7/16" drill bit for all the holes, providing some wiggle room for fine-tuning later. Keep WD-40 handy to keep the bits cool and prevent overheating. Don't forget to wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from metal shavings. After drilling the holes, mount a 5/8" countersink bit and countersink the holes until the screw heads sit flush.

Step 6: Drill the Rear Rail

Place the fence onto the saw. Due to the motor protruding from the back of the saw, you will need to clamp the rear rail in place instead of using a sawhorse. Line up the zero reference lines and adjust the rear rail until the fence is raised evenly with the front, maintaining a consistent gap (e.g., 1/16"). Mark the drilling locations on the rear rail just like you did for the front. Drill the holes and bolt the rear rail in place.

Step 7: Final Adjustments and Testing

Ensure that everything is lined up correctly. Raise the blade and slide the fence until it touches the right side of the blade. If the sight on the fence does not read "Zero," loosen the adjustment screws and line it up. Test the fence by sliding wood against the blade to ensure smooth and accurate cuts.

Aligning the fence

Step 1: Establishing the Zero Reference Line

The fence's guide tube has an integrated measuring tape, so you need to ensure it lines up correctly. Attach the guide tube to the front rail, then use your square against the front edge of the guide tube to find the "Zero" line. Transfer this mark to the front rail, and then to the back rail by butting it up against the front rail. Set the back rail aside for now. Place the fence onto the front rail/guide tube assembly, aligning the sight on the fence with the zero line on the guide tube, and lock it down.

Step 2: Blade Height and Fence Positioning

Raise the blade to its full height. Lay the fence on the table and slide it firmly against the blade. Ensure that the front rail is also firmly against the front of the saw. Use clamps to secure the front rail and keep it level. Transfer the pencil mark from the front rail to the front of your saw table, then remove the fence and front rail. Use a square to extend this mark up the front, across the top, and down the back of the table. These marks will guide you in lining up the scale correctly.

Step 3: Fine-Tuning the Fence Height

You'll want the fence to be as close to the table as possible without touching it. Find the right height by clamping the front rail assembly to the front of the saw and adjusting its height with shims. Check that the fence is level and has the right clearance by popping the fence onto the rail and adjusting as needed. The ideal height will give you just enough room to drill, with the fence riding very close to the table (around 1/16" above it). Use a combination square to ensure this measurement is consistent across the rail's length.

Step 4: Marking and Drilling the Front Rail

You can choose to drill new holes in the saw table or the front rail. For the latter, prop the front rail assembly on a sawhorse and slide it against the saw table, lining up the marks you made earlier. Use shims to get it into the right position, checking occasionally with the fence to ensure proper clearance. Mark the drilling locations with a Sharpie, then disassemble the front rail and guide tube for drilling. Drill the holes with a 7/16" drill bit, using WD-40 to keep things cool and safety glasses to protect your eyes from metal shavings. After drilling, countersink the holes with a 5/8" countersink bit so that the screw heads sit flush.

Step 5: Drilling the Rear Rail

Place the fence back on the saw. Due to the motor at the back of the saw, you'll need to clamp the rear rail in place instead of using a sawhorse. Line up the zero reference lines and adjust the rear rail's height by loosening one end at a time and bumping it up until the fence is raised evenly with the front. Mark the drilling locations, then drill the holes with a similar setup as the front rail. Countersinking is not necessary for the rear rail.

Step 6: Final Assembly and Adjustment

Bolt the rear rail on and install the fence. If everything is lined up correctly, raise the blade and slide the fence over until it touches the blade's right side. If the sight on the fence doesn't read "Zero," loosen the screws on the sight and adjust it. Your fence should now be solid and smooth-gliding.

This process will take time and patience, but it will ensure your Craftsman Model 113 table saw fence is aligned accurately for precise cuts.

Replacing the fence

The Delta T2 fence is a popular upgrade for Craftsman 113 table saws. However, the pre-drilled holes do not line up with the saw, so you will need to drill new holes. Before you begin, ensure you have the following tools:

• Combination Square
• Carpenters Square
• 7/16" Drill Bit
• 3/8" Drill Bit
• 5/8" Countersink Bit
• Flat Head/Phillips Head Screwdrivers
• Wrenches (various sizes)
• Socket Set
• Various Clamps
• Drill
• WD-40

Step 1: Establish the Zero Reference Line

Attach the guide tube to the front rail. Using your square against the front edge of the guide tube, find the "Zero" line and transfer a pencil mark to the front rail. Butt the back rail up to the front rail and transfer the mark. Set the back rail aside and place the fence onto the front rail/guide tube assembly. Line up the sight on the fence with the zero line on the guide tube and lock it down. Raise the blade to full height and lay the fence on the table, sliding it firmly against the blade. Ensure that the front rail is against the front of the saw and use clamps to secure it in place. Transfer the pencil mark from the front rail to the front of the saw table and remove the fence and front rail. Using a small square, extend the pencil mark up the front of the table, and then use a larger square to extend the mark across the top of the table and down the back.

Step 2: Mark the Front Rail for Drilling

There are two approaches to making the fence fit. You can either use the pre-existing holes in the front rail and drill new holes in the saw table, or use the pre-existing holes in the table and drill the front rail. For the latter, prop the front rail assembly up on a sawhorse and slide it up to the front of the saw table, lining up the line drawn on the front rail with the line marked on the table. Use scrap wood and paper to shim it up to the desired height, occasionally clamping the front rail in place and checking the clearance over the tabletop. Take your time to find the right height for the rail. Once you are happy with the position, use a Sharpie marker to mark the drilling locations by marking through the existing holes in the tabletop.

Step 3: Drilling the Front Rail

Set up a makeshift fence on your drill press by using a piece of aluminium angle that pivots on a bolt on one end and is secured by a c-clamp on the other. Drill into the back of the rail where your marks are made. Use a couple of blocks of wood to elevate the rail off the table and reference the bottom of the rail against the fence. Drill the holes with a 7/16" drill bit, which is roughly the same size as the pre-drilled holes in the rail and gives some room for fine-tuning later. Keep a can of WD-40 handy to keep things cool and wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from metal shavings. After drilling the first hole, slide the rail down and drill the second hole. Next, mount a 5/8" countersink bit and countersink the holes until the screw heads sit flush.

Step 4: Drilling the Rear Rail

Place the fence in position. Due to the motor at the back of the saw, you will need to clamp the rear rail in place instead of using a sawhorse. Loosen one end at a time and bump the rail up until the fence is raised evenly with the front. Once you're happy with the position, mark the holes for drilling. Using a similar setup on the drill press, drill the holes. It is not necessary to countersink these holes. Bolt the rear rail on and install the fence.

Step 5: Final Checks

Make sure everything is lined up correctly. Raise the blade and slide the fence over until it touches the right side of the blade. If the sight on the fence doesn't read "Zero", loosen the two screws on the sight and line it up.

Frequently asked questions