Uncovering The Secrets Of François Earrings

Screw-back earrings are a type of earring that uses a small screw to secure the earring to the earlobe. They were first introduced in the late 1800s to early 1900s and were popular among women who did not have pierced ears. Screw-back earrings are considered safer than other types of earrings as they are more secure and less likely to fall out. They are also a good option for people with sensitive ears. When trying to identify the age of screw-back earrings, one can look at the style of the earring, any markings or stamps, and the amount of wear and damage. Additionally, consulting a professional jeweler for an appraisal is recommended for valuable pieces.

Look for the fittings and findings on the earrings

To identify François screw-back earrings, one of the key things to look out for is the fittings and findings on the earrings. Jewelry findings are ready-made pieces that jewelers use, such as clasps, pin stems, and hinges. Fittings, on the other hand, refer to the parts that can be custom-made for a piece.

The invention of different earring findings will help date your jewelry. For example, the earliest form of earring findings was the shepherd hook, followed by the kidney wire, which was invented in the 1870s and is still used today with some modifications. The screw-back style, both pierced and non-pierced, was introduced in the early 1900s, with the non-pierced version still being made today, although it is not as common. The lever back, post and butterfly, spring clip, and omega back styles were introduced later.

Some other clues to help identify the date of your François screw-back earrings include the materials used, the style of the earrings, and any markings or hallmarks. Vintage jewelry is typically defined as being at least 50 years old, with some sources stating that it should be less than 100 years old but otherwise significant. The materials used in vintage jewelry often include gold plating, Austrian crystals, enamel, bakelite, and rhinestones. The style of vintage earrings is usually more delicate and intricate than modern ones. Finally, markings or hallmarks on the earrings can help identify the maker and date of the earrings.

Identify the materials used

Identifying the materials used in vintage earrings can help determine their age and value.

The first screw-back earrings were designed for non-pierced ears in the late Victorian era, from around 1880 to 1900. They remained popular through the early 1950s, and you can still find them on the market today, although they are less common.

Screw-back earrings can be made from a variety of materials, including gold, silver, rhinestones, and pearls. They can also be set in metal backings or have earring findings attached to the back of the button material.

Some of the most popular materials used in vintage costume jewellery include gold plating, Austrian crystals, enamel, bakelite, and rhinestones. These materials were often used to create bold, colourful pieces that sparkled and made a statement.

Additionally, certain metals were commonly used in costume jewellery based on cost and the ability to sculpt, cast, or construct them. Base metals such as brass, copper, zinc, pot metal, nickel silver, and aluminium were frequently employed and often plated with gold or rhodium to enhance their appearance.

When examining vintage earrings, it's important to consider not only the materials used but also the type of clasps, pinbacks, or security chains present, as these can also provide valuable clues about their age.

Use colour to guess the time period

The use of colour in jewellery can help to identify the time period in which it was made. For example, the colours used in jewellery during the Renaissance era were almost gaudy, while the use of colour during the Victorian era was somber due to the death of Prince Albert, which caused Queen Victoria to declare an extended period of mourning. After the Victorian era, the Art Nouveau period utilised soft and delicate colours with rich gold and silver metals. This was short-lived as the Art Deco era soon took the forefront with its use of bolder colours and geometric designs. A devil-may-care attitude influenced this look.

Additionally, certain colours were more popular during particular eras. For instance, browns, greens, and other earth tones were widely used in the 1940s, 1950s, and again in the 1970s. Neutrals like black, white, and grey were all the rage in the 1950s when designing with rhinestone, Austrian crystal, and other faux gemstone bracelets and necklaces. Bright bold colours were popular after World War II, from the mid-1940s to the 1960s. In the mid-century decades, faux elements like pearls or gemstones sparkled with colour combinations, and even aurora borealis stones were faceted to look authentic.

Look for marks and hallmarks

To identify François screw-back earrings, you can look for marks and hallmarks that indicate the piece's authenticity, origin, and composition. Here are some tips to help you look for these marks and hallmarks:

• Maker's Mark: A maker's mark is a unique stamp or symbol placed on jewellery to ensure the authenticity of the manufacturer. These marks can be the manufacturer's initials, name, or another representative symbol. For example, the maker's mark for Tiffany & Co. is "Tiffany & Co." or "T & Co." François screw-back earrings may have a similar maker's mark that you can look for.
• Hallmarks: Hallmarks are official marks that indicate the purity of the metal, the country of origin, and the date of manufacture. In some countries, hallmarks are required by law and are given by the country where the manufacturing took place. For example, in the United Kingdom, assay offices use specific symbols to indicate the regional office that hallmarked the item. An anchor symbol, for instance, represents Birmingham, while a castle represents Edinburgh. If your François screw-back earrings were manufactured in the UK, they may have similar hallmark symbols.
• Purity Marks: Purity marks indicate the metal content of the jewellery. For gold jewellery, look for a two-digit number followed by the letter "k" or a three-digit number. For example, "18k" or "750" indicates 75% gold content. For silver jewellery, marks such as "925," "STERLING," "STG," or "STER" indicate sterling silver, which is 92.5% pure silver. If your François screw-back earrings are made of gold or silver, look for these purity marks.
• Date Letters: In some countries, date letters are used to indicate when the item was stamped at the assay office, not the exact date of manufacture. For example, in Great Britain, jewellery made before 1999 was required to have a date letter stamp corresponding to the year it was registered. If your François screw-back earrings have a date letter, you can use reference books or online resources to determine their approximate age.
• Country of Origin: Hallmarks can also indicate the country of origin. For example, an eagle's head on gold jewellery indicates that it is from France and has a minimum of 18k gold. A boar's head was the mark of the Paris assay office, while offices outside the capital used a crab emblem. If your François screw-back earrings have French hallmarks, look for these specific marks.

By examining your François screw-back earrings closely, preferably with a jeweller's loupe or a microscope, you may be able to identify marks and hallmarks that provide valuable information about their authenticity, origin, and composition.

Check the style of the earrings

When trying to identify François screw-back earrings, it is important to check the style of the earrings. This is because the style of the earrings can give you an idea of their age and whether they are vintage or not.

Vintage earrings tend to be more delicate and intricate than modern ones. They also often feature specific colours and types of materials. For example, in the mid-twentieth century, pearls, gemstones, and aurora borealis stones were embellished with colour combinations to look like real stones. In contrast, modern earrings are thicker in diameter with a much lighter nut than vintage earrings.

Screw-back earrings were first introduced in 1894 and became popular in the early 1900s. They were designed for women without pierced ears. However, screw-back earrings are not as common today as they were in the past. If your earrings feature a threaded post, you should consider using a screw back.

Other features to look out for when identifying the age of earrings include any markings or stamps and any wear and damage.

Frequently asked questions