Crafting A Jointer Sled For Your Table Saw: A Comprehensive Guide

Woodworking projects require perfectly straight lumber, but wood from the store is rarely perfectly flat. While a jointer is the ideal tool for correcting warped or bent wood, these machines are often bulky and expensive. For home woodworkers, a more practical solution is to build a jointer sled for your table saw. With a jointer sled, you can achieve the same clean, straight edges necessary for glue-ups and tight-fitting joints, without the need for a dedicated jointer machine. In this article, we will guide you through the process of building your own jointer sled, covering the tools and materials needed, step-by-step instructions, and useful tips to get the best results. By the end, you should have a functional jointer sled that will transform your table saw into a versatile tool for all your woodworking projects.

Cutting the plywood to size

To cut the plywood to size, you will need a table saw, a track saw, or a circular saw. The size of your plywood will depend on the size of your table saw and the size of the wood you plan to joint. For example, if you are jointing smaller pieces of wood, you may only need a sled that is 10 inches wide and 44 inches long. If you are jointing larger pieces of wood, you may need a sled that is 24 inches by 18 inches.

When cutting the plywood, it is important to make straight and accurate cuts. If your cuts are not straight, it will affect the accuracy of your jointer sled. Take your time and use a guide or fence to help you cut in a straight line.

If you are using a table saw, set the fence to the desired width and cut the plywood to size. Make sure the blade is parallel to the fence and that the blade is set to the correct height for the thickness of the plywood. Stand to the side of the blade, not directly behind it, to avoid injury in case of kickback.

If you are using a circular saw or a track saw, make sure the blade is set to the correct depth and that you are cutting on a stable surface. Use a straight edge or a guide to help you cut in a straight line. Cut slowly and carefully to ensure accuracy.

Once you have cut the plywood to size, you can move on to the next step of building your jointer sled, which is assembling the base and the runner.

Cutting dovetail grooves

To cut dovetail grooves, you'll need a router mounted in a table and a standard dovetail bit. You can choose among dovetail bits with cutting diameters from 1⁄4 " up to 3⁄4 ", and with cutting edges angled from 7° to 18°. A steeper angle adds reliability in softwood, and narrow stock calls for a narrow bit.

• Choose a joint size that works best for your project. While the joint’s socket (the trench that the dovetailed piece will slide into) will almost always run the entire length of the piece it’s going in, the width of the groove is entirely up to you. As far as depth goes, a good general rule is to keep the socket between 1/3 and 2/3 of your wood’s total thickness.
• Mark the size and placement of your cut with a pencil. Draw two lines of a corresponding width down the face of your socket piece with the aid of a ruler or straightedge.
• Fit a router with a straight or spiral downcut bit of an appropriate size. A 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) bit will be ideal for routing standard 3⁄4 in (1.9 cm) stock boards and sheets.
• Set up a fence or separate edge guide just outside your layout lines. Position the guide or fence so that your router’s bit sits squarely at the midpoint between the width lines you traced earlier.
• Put on protective gear. Things are going to get pretty loud once you fire up your router. It’s also possible to send small shards of wood flying, so it’s important to wear protective eyewear and earmuffs.
• Glide the router along the marked section of the wood. Switch on your router and set the base plate flush against both the piece and your edge guide or fence, with the bit itself positioned outside the edge of the wood. Move the router from left to right to ensure that it tracks smoothly and easily.
• Switch out your straight bit for a dovetail bit and repeat the process. Once again, move your router or piece along straight, making sure it stays in contact with the edge guide or fence at all times. The angled dovetail bit will shave off the bottom portion of the vertical edge made by your straight or spiral downcut bit to give the dovetail its signature tapered shape.
• Rotate your piece 180 degrees and make a final pass to complete the socket. Turn your piece around (don’t flip it!) and reset your edge guide or fence as needed. Push the router along the wood or vice versa to carve a fanned dovetail into the other side of the groove.

Now that you've cut your dovetail grooves, you can proceed to the next steps of making a jointer sled for a table saw.

Attaching the runner

Now that the sled is made, it’s time to attach the runner. Using some CA glue and accelerator makes this task pretty simple. Set your fence so that your sled will be slightly over the blade. That way, after the runner is installed, you can cut the sled to be perfectly square with the miter slot.

Drill clearance holes along the runner about every 6 inches. Place a couple of pieces of double-sided tape along the runner. This will hold the runner in place precisely while you attach it to the bottom of the sled in the next step.

Place a few washers at the bottom of the tracks in your table saw. This will raise the runner above the top of the table saw. Lower the blade and move the fence to 0. Place the sled against the fence and press firmly on the double-sided tape on the runner. Carefully remove the sled and runner from the table saw. Tighten the screws into the sled.

With the sled and runner assembled, you can now cut the sled to size. Move your fence so that the sled will be slightly over the blade. Turn on your saw and cut the sled to be perfectly square with the miter slot.

Now that your sled is attached to the runner and cut to size, you can start using it for your woodworking projects. The sled will help you achieve straight and accurate cuts, making it a valuable tool for any woodworker.

Cutting the zero clearance

To cut the zero clearance, you must first attach the runner to the base of your sled. Once the glue has dried, place the runner into the miter slot, pulling the sled back from the blade. Ensure the blade on your table saw is raised about 1/8 inch higher than the base. Turn on the saw and push the sled through, making sure the runner stays in the miter slot for the entire cut.

This cut will give your sled a perfect reference edge. It is recommended to use a dedicated crosscut blade if your sled is made of plywood, as this will result in a cleaner cut with minimal tear-out.

Now, you can add the final touches to your sled. Sand the surfaces for extra smoothness and use a block plane to chamfer the edges of the fence. Apply a light finish with spray lacquer and, most importantly, wax the bottom of the sled. This will ensure smooth sliding and prevent scratches on your table.

Clamping and cutting

Clamping

Clamps are used to secure the wood in place before it is cut. There are different types of clamps available, such as toggle clamps, bench clamps, and Destaco clamps. When attaching the clamps to the sled, it is important to ensure that they are positioned correctly to avoid cracking the plywood. One way to do this is to use a stand, such as a small square of 1/4" plywood, to raise the clamps slightly above the surface of the sled. This will also allow for the adjustable tension of the clamps to be utilised. Using bolts with a nut and washer can also help to distribute the pressure more evenly and prevent cracking. Additionally, slots can be used instead of holes when attaching the clamps, allowing for more flexibility in accommodating different-sized workpieces.

Cutting

Once the clamps are securely in place and the wood is clamped down, it is time to start the table saw and begin cutting. It is important to take safety precautions when operating the saw, such as standing to the left side of the blade in case of kickback. The height of the blade should be adjusted just above the surface of the stock. The jig should be pulled towards the body, and the saw should trim the edge of the stock, creating a perfectly straight edge. After the first cut, the jig can be adjusted to accommodate the width of the board, and the process can be repeated to create a board that is perfectly square.

Frequently asked questions