Crafting Thin Cuts: A Guide To Table Saw Techniques For Delicate Pieces

Cutting thin strips of wood with a table saw can be dangerous, but there are several methods to do so safely. The primary concern is safety, as thin strips of wood can be difficult to push past the blade and kickback can occur. Additionally, the fence must be adjusted for each cut to achieve the desired thickness. To overcome these challenges, woodworkers have devised various jigs and techniques, such as using a push block, a sacrificial push stick, or a stop on the left side of the blade. It is also important to consider the type of wood, its thickness and length, the grain, the blade, and the desired use of the thin strips. While a band saw or hand saw may be safer options, a table saw can be used with the proper precautions and adjustments.

Utilise a jig to cut thin strips

Using a jig is a great way to cut thin strips safely and accurately. A jig is a handy tool that acts as a guide for your table saw, allowing you to cut thin strips of wood with ease. Here are the steps to create and utilise a jig for cutting thin strips:

Step 1: Prepare the Base

Choose a scrap piece of wood, such as a 4 x 4 fir fence post, for the base of your jig. Cut it to a length that will support the wood you plan to cut into strips. For example, if you need to support 10" of wood, cut the base to roughly 17" long. Use a jointer or hand plane to ensure the bottom and two sides of the base are at 90-degree angles to each other. The top of the base does not need to be at a 90-degree angle.

Step 2: Prepare the Handle

For the handle, you can use a scrap piece of construction lumber, such as a 2 x 6 pine board. Mark the length of the handle in relation to the base and draw the shape you desire. Cut out the shape using a band saw or jigsaw. Sand down the handle to smooth out any sharp corners and create a comfortable grip. Drill a hole for your thumb using a 1 1/4" forstner bit, and round off the edges of the hole with a 1/4" round over bit in a trim router.

Step 3: Attach the Handle

Line up the handle on top of the base and pre-drill two holes through the handle into the base – one in the front and one in the rear. Secure the handle by screwing in two 3" long wood screws. You can optionally use wood glue for added strength.

Step 4: Create the Rear Support Piece

This piece will push the wood through the table saw blade as you push the jig forward. Cut a piece of wood that is taller than or equal to the wood you will be cutting. The width should be slightly wider than the base to provide stability. Attach this piece to the back end of the jig with two 2" long wood screws, ensuring it is not glued for future adjustments.

Step 5: Set Up the Jig

Position your table saw fence and the jig close to the blade. If you have a thin strip of wood that is the desired width, use it to adjust the distance between the jig and the blade. Tighten down the fence. If you don't have a pre-cut strip, you can start cutting thicker strips and gradually slide the fence closer to the blade until you achieve the desired thickness.

Step 6: Cut Thin Strips Safely

With the jig set up, place your prepared wood against the jig and turn on the table saw. Push the jig forward, providing light support to the wood being cut. Always use a push stick for added safety. Remember that table saws are dangerous power tools, so take the necessary precautions and work at your own risk.

By following these steps, you can utilise a jig to cut thin strips on your table saw efficiently and securely. This jig will save you time and ensure consistent results for your woodworking projects.

Use a MicroJig GRR-Ripper

The MicroJig GRR-Ripper is a 3D push block that can be used with table saws, router tables, band saws, and jointers. It is designed to give you more accurate cuts while protecting your hands. It is especially useful when cutting thin strips on a table saw.

The GRR-Ripper provides three directions of force: downward pressure to stabilize the workpiece, inward pressure to keep the workpiece against the fence, and forward pressure to feed the stock consistently through the cut. This prevents kickback and eliminates burning and blade marks.

The GRR-Ripper has a proprietary Green GRR-RIP material that provides incredible traction for easy handling of various materials such as hardwoods, composites, plastics, and aluminum. The treaded surface conforms to the workpiece for superior control.

The GRR-Ripper is fully adjustable, allowing you to accommodate different sizes and widths of material. It comes with a variety of accessories, such as the Stabilizing Plate, Adjustable Spacer, Deflector/Connector, Handle Bridge Kit, Gravity Heel Kit, and 1/8" Leg, to enhance its functionality and versatility.

The GRR-Ripper is a valuable tool for any woodworker, providing superior precision, control, and safety when working with power tools. It is a worthwhile investment to improve your woodworking experience and ensure your safety.

Use a zero-clearance insert

Using a zero-clearance insert is a great way to improve the safety and precision of your table saw when working with thin pieces of wood. Here's a comprehensive guide on how to use and create your own zero-clearance insert:

Benefits of a Zero-Clearance Insert

A zero-clearance insert is a vital accessory for your table saw when working with thin pieces of wood. It serves multiple purposes:

• Safety: The zero-clearance insert prevents small pieces of wood from falling into the gap between the blade and the insert, reducing the risk of these pieces being thrown back at you or causing a jam.
• Clean Cuts: By providing full support to the workpiece, the insert minimises chip-out and tear-out, resulting in cleaner, splinter-free cuts.
• Dust Collection: With no clearance around the blade, the zero-clearance insert also improves dust collection by reducing the escape of sawdust through the top.

Creating Your Own Zero-Clearance Insert

You can easily create your own zero-clearance insert, and it's recommended to have a set of these inserts tailored to specific blades. Here's a step-by-step process:

• Measurements: Start by removing your table saw's insert and taking precise measurements of its length, height, and depth using digital calipers.
• Select Material: Choose a material such as plywood or MDF with a thickness similar to your existing insert. This material should be slightly thicker than the depth of the lowest support from the tabletop.
• Trace Outline: Place the stock insert face-down on the chosen material and trace its outline with a pencil, excluding the blade slot.
• Rip Cut to Width: Set your table saw fence to the width of the insert and rip the material to the desired width. Ensure your fence is accurately set for consistent results.
• Mitre Cut to Length: Cut the material to the right length using a mitre gauge set at 0°. This cut doesn't need to be precise, as you'll refine it later.
• Angled Mitre (Optional): For easier sanding, you can make angled cuts on the mitre gauge, cutting the corners of the material to create a more manageable shape.
• Sanding: Use a powered sander or belt sander to sand the corners of the material down to the traced outline. Follow up with hand sanding for a smooth finish.
• Test Fit: Before proceeding, ensure that your sanded insert fits snugly into the table saw housing. Check for any irregularities or special clips inside the insert housing and make adjustments as needed.
• Clamp and Cut Kerf: Fully retract the blade, place the insert into the housing, and clamp it in place using a sacrificial board. Slowly raise the blade to cut through the insert and the sacrificial board. This creates the zero-clearance kerf.
• Drill Opening: Drill a finger hole in the insert for easier installation and removal. Use a sacrificial board underneath to reduce tear-out. Smooth the edges of the hole with sandpaper.
• Final Adjustments: Ensure that your zero-clearance insert is level with the table saw surface. Make any necessary adjustments to the height or levelling screws.

Additional Tips

• Blade Position: Always keep the blade perpendicular to the table when using a zero-clearance insert to maintain minimal clearance and prevent thin stock from being pulled into the saw.
• Riving Knife: If your table saw has a riving knife, ensure that there is sufficient space for it to move up and down. You may need to cut the slot all the way through the insert to accommodate the riving knife.
• Retention: Consider adding a retention method to keep the insert in place during use. This can be done using magnets, set screws, or a combination of both.
• Finish: Apply a few coats of varnish to your zero-clearance insert for a smooth finish and easier gliding.

Use a handsaw instead

Using a handsaw instead of a table saw to cut thin pieces of wood is a great option if you're looking for a more precise cut and don't mind the extra time and effort it takes. Here are some tips on how to use a handsaw effectively:

Securing the Wood

Start by securing the wood to a workbench or sawhorse, ensuring plenty of space to work around it. Use woodworking clamps to hold the wood firmly in place. This step is crucial to prevent the wood from shifting during the cutting process.

Marking the Cut Line

Use a tape measure to determine the size of the wood and where you need to cut it. With a pencil and a square, draw a straight line across the wood to indicate the cutting path. If you're a beginner, consider extending the line around the entire workpiece to better guide your cut.

Positioning Yourself

Position yourself so that you have an eye on each side of the saw blade. This will help ensure that your cut is straight and at a 90-degree angle to the wood. Avoid standing too far to one side, as this can cause the saw to cut at an angle.

Holding the Handsaw

Grip the handle of the saw firmly, but not too tightly. Keep your elbow close to your body to prevent the blade from tilting. Align your wrist, arm, and shoulder with the blade. Place your non-dominant hand on the wood to steady it, keeping it a safe distance from the blade.

Starting the Cut

Place the handsaw on the wood, slightly away from the cut line. Angle the far edge of the blade down towards the ground and slightly raise the elbow holding the saw. Start by making a few back cuts (cutting towards yourself) to create a small notch or groove in the edge of the wood.

Continuing the Cut

After making the initial notch, reposition the saw into the groove and continue cutting with a forward and backward motion. Use long, easy strokes to utilise the full length of the blade. Let the saw do the work, and avoid applying too much force. As you near the end of the cut, shorten your strokes and reduce the cutting angle to achieve a clean finish.

Correcting Mistakes

Even experienced carpenters sometimes veer off the cut line. If this happens, stop sawing and bring the blade back to the point where you started drifting. Start sawing again from that point to maintain a straight and accurate cut.

Safety Considerations

Always wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from sawdust and debris. Keep your non-dominant hand away from the moving blade at all times. Regularly clean your blade and sharpen the teeth to ensure smooth and efficient cutting.

Use a sled

Using a sled with your table saw is a great way to make cutting thin pieces of wood safer and more accurate. Here's a step-by-step guide to building and using a sled for your table saw:

Building the Sled:

• Cut the Base and Fences: Start by cutting your base piece to fit your table saw. The base should be slightly larger than your table saw top to provide more capacity. For the fences, use thicker plywood (e.g. double stacks of 3/4" ply) to create a sturdy fence. Cut the fences to size, ensuring the length of the back fence is square, and the front fence is at least as long as the base.
• Glue Up the Fences: When gluing the fences together, pay attention to the grain direction to counteract any bowing. Alternate the pieces so that their opposing forces pull them flat. You can also clamp the pieces against a level surface while they dry.
• Cut and Attach the Runners: Measure the width of your miter slots and cut hardwood strips (e.g. maple or oak) to fit snugly. Sand or plane the runners if needed so they slide easily in the slots without binding. Attach the runners to the base using glue and screws, ensuring they are positioned precisely and sit slightly above the table surface.
• Add a Stop Block: Consider adding a stop block to your sled for repetitive cuts. You can use a commercial stop block or create your own. Cut a groove in the fence to fit the stop block and secure it in place.
• Attach the Fences to the Sled: Attach the back fence to the base by screwing through the bottom of the sled. The placement isn't critical as long as it reaches past both sides of the blade. For the front fence, use a pivot screw on one end and a temporary screw on the other. This will allow you to adjust the fence for accuracy.

Squaring the Sled:

• The Five-Cut Method: To ensure your sled is square, you can use the five-cut method. This method helps you calculate the error in your cuts and adjust the fence accordingly. Label the sides of a scrap piece of wood and make consecutive cuts, rotating the wood after each cut. After the fifth cut, measure the width of the sides and the length of the offcut to calculate the error per inch.
• Adjusting the Fence: Use the error calculation to determine how much to adjust the fence. You can use a feeler gauge or strips of paper to set the new position for the fence. Loosen the temporary screw, move the fence to the new position, and secure it with a new screw. Repeat the five-cut method and adjust as needed until you achieve the desired accuracy.

Using the Sled:

• Safety Precautions: When using the sled, always remove the blade guard and keep your hands away from the blade. Ensure the blade height is set correctly, typically no more than 1/4" to 1/8" above the wood.
• Crosscutting Technique: Pull the sled back, place your workpiece against the fence, and line up the blade with your cutting mark. Turn on the saw, hold the wood against the fence, and slowly push the workpiece through the blade. After the cut, separate the pieces from the blade and shut off the saw. Let the blade come to a complete stop before removing the wood.
• Repetitive Cuts: For repetitive cuts of the same length, use stop blocks. You can attach stop blocks to the fence or the table saw fence, ensuring they are positioned correctly to avoid kickback.

Frequently asked questions